Pressbook Constance Festival Culinary 2024
3/27/24, 4:18 PM
Mauritius: German star cuisine in the tropical paradise - Falstaff
Maurizio Oster - anonymously, of course. So there is a lot to do for everyone involved this week under the palm trees.
GERMAN METICULOUSNESS MEETS AFRICAN LAISSEZ-FAIRE Not everything here in Mauritius works like it does at home in Germany , or rather: not much. The kitchen operation in the 620-guest luxury hotel is huge, spread across fve restaurant outlets; the kitchen team alone has around 170 employees , and the hotel has over 800 employees . The service quality is therefore remarkable and in short: the dimensions and processes are somewhat diferent than in a 30-cup gourmet restaurant with almost exclusively highly trained staf. “You don’t really know what to expect,” Gallein replies when asked how he prepared. »I have made all the recipes and orders in advance - but apparently it is still uncertain whether everything will arrive. I hope I don't have to replan." Of course he would like to present the signature style from the restaurant at home, even if he basically reduced the components and efort in the concept and planned around the specifed products (oyster, turbot, beef fllet). In principle, he would have liked to have worked with a more “interesting” fsh instead of turbot – in Hanover, a local char is served on the table, even if the “Votum” explicitly does not cook dogmatically locally and likes to use luxury products. In any case, the zucchini fowers we ordered hadn't fown into Mauritius two days before dinner, but Gallein had already prepared his koji the day before.
The German chef can defnitely be sure of the support of the local team - because it is an honor to work with top international chefs and learn from them. Although language can be a barrier , where at least good English or ideally French is a must. IN ANOTHER WORLD OF FLAVORS With music, dancing, rum cocktails and in colorful costumes, the hotel team will rightly proudly present their own regional cuisine at an opening event . Multi-faceted combinations of beguiling spices, chili and coconut, Indian and African infuences : Mauritian cuisine is complex and not easy to grasp for the German spectrum of favors. As an unavoidable and necessary ingredient , “Roche Cari” , the local curry paste, is also part of the culinary competition. The participants will have to use them for one of their dishes, make them themselves and also ofer them pure to the jury for tasting . At home, Gallein cooks with just a few spices. Salt, he says, is the most important thing in their kitchen in the “Votum”, where a lot of time and work goes into developing the ingredients before the actual cooking process: maturing processes of fsh and meat, home-made products, kojis, misos – and surprising combinations of ingredients . ON THE DAY OF DINNER The zucchini fowers have yet to arrive. Just short and not as grown as Gallein would have liked - because he also prepares the mini zucchini in the restaurant at home - but at least. Not only the zucchini, but also other products for the festival landed in Mauritius with a delay . The dishes from the sponsor, for example, barely arrived on the frst day of the festival. Or the caviar , two weeks late, but in time for Gallein's oyster with “herbs and lemon” to start the menu. But that's just how it is, around a twelve-hour fight from us, where we like to take availability and overland routes for shopping for granted. In the morning , a chef from the local team at the “Constance Hotel Belle Mare Plage” carefully flls the zucchini fowers in the air-conditioned part of the kitchen of the “Deer Hunter” restaurant. A colleague fllets grapefruit , one segment more beautiful than the next, and another wraps delicate parcels of bitter lettuce, radish and rocket - these, like the grapefruit, will later
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https://www.falstaff.com/de/news/mauritius-deutsche-sternekueche-im-tropenparadies
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